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Jul 30

Nikon D90 or Canon 50D MK II – Twitterstream


ConstantChange
To @5tu and @EugeniaLoli – friend got hands on Nikon D90 – prefer or not over Canon 50D Mk II?

Stu Maschwitz
5tu @ConstantChange Not.
from Tweetie in reply to ConstantChange

ConstantChange
@5tu I guessed so. The footage I’m seeing from the D90 really looks nice though. http://ri.ms/rfv4 (D90 Grammy spot shot by friend)
from web in reply to 5tu

EugeniaLoli
@ConstantChange That’s because the scenes are so short that you don’t get to see all the disadvantages of the D90. Choose 5D.
from web in reply to ConstantChange

ConstantChange
@EugeniaLoli
Cheers, as I told Stu Maschwitz – that was what I suspected, wanted to confirm it remained true after firmware updates etc ty!
from web in reply to EugeniaLoli

~~~

ConstantChange
The film we are shooting in Hawai’i right now is using a RED camera

~~~

EugeniaLoli
Ordered the Rode Stereo VideoMic, a dead kitten for it, and a 2.5 m boom pole too. Should be fun.

ConstantChange
@EugeniaLoli – I love the rode mic for my HV20. Have the boom pole too but the attachment screw for it is not well designed.

~~~

(Meanwhile back on Stu’s Twittertstream:)

Stu Maschwitz
@debonbon Actually (Nikon D90′s) 720p is a wonderful resolution if everything else is done well. What Nikon needs is manual control.

Tyler Ginter
@5tu If rolling shutter is the same on the D300s as the D90 and D5000 then Nikon is just showing how little pride they take in video… IMO

Stu Maschwitz
@tylerginter Agreed. The 5D2′s rolling shutter is nasty but workable. The D90′s is a dealbreaker.
5 minutes ago from Tweetie in reply to tylerginter

—–

Eugenia Loli is a videographer, tech journalist, developer who writes an excellent blog about video, post-production and color correction at http://eugenia.gnomefiles.org/

Stu Maschwitz is a founder of The Orphanage and author of the DV Rebel’s Toolkit.  he runs http://prolost.com/ an astounding resource on everything from After Effects and color timing to the very latest in HD cameras and shooting techniques.

Constant Change is the author of this blog.

**Full disclosure – although Stu and Eugenia are both critical and discerning and do not work for either of the companies being discussed, I did first come across each of them through their enthusiasm for, and my interest in, the Canon HV20 camera.

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Feb 9

HV20 Experiment 1: Film Setup, No Gain, No Cell Phone Trick

Posted on Saturday, February 9, 2008 in Canon, Cinemode, HV20, Lighting, cell phone trick, exposure, iris, shutter speed, tvmode

Today I ran an experiment to push the HV20 to give me optimal film settings with the narrowest depth of field without a lens adapter. In other words, I wanted to see what I could get using just the camera itself.


After reading an excellent post by the author (handle: Aramis) of the Canon Elura guide (elurauser.com) over at the hv20 boards I decided to forego Barry Green’s “cell phone trick” (with all respect intact) and thus CineMode, and instead lock the shutter speed at 1/48th using TVMode instead.


Here is the reasoning Aramis provides:


“I find Barry’s article unnecessary complex and convoluted. I believe that there is no reason of pointing to light source. What for? Need to read current aperture? Press the photo button. Need to set aperture? Select Tv mode, choose shutter speed, then lock exposure and adjust to your liking, checking current aperture with photo button. Not enough EV range? Well, in this case you can point to a dark area or, conversely, to a bright light source just to set a different baseline for built-in light meter, then lock exposure. Then you can adjust exposure and the range will be different, but what is the point of shifting the range, say, to smaller apertures if you shoot in low light? You won’t see anything.”


I locked the exposure to give me as open an iris as possible without adding electronic gain – in this case – 2.4 (-8 EXP). Anything above that setting showed a redundant 2.4 on the display and thus I assumed I was moving into digital gain territory (ie. -9 gave me 2.6, -8 gave me 2.4, -7 and above also showed 2.4). I based this on a diagram which displays that the largest aperture at full zoom for HV20 is is f/3.0. (Fig. 1.1)

Taking this into consideration, I decided to attempt an optical zoom that was at neither extreme. Most discussions thus far have concerning locking the exposure and shutter involve the camera being zoom all the way in or all the way out. A little restrictive by any definition.


manual mode aperture table hv20 HV20 Experiment 1: Film Setup, No Gain, No Cell Phone Trick

(Fig. 1.1) Demonstrating aperture/gain relationship of the HV20 where the red area is the electronic gain zone
Copyright © 2007 elurauser.com

By playing with the optical zoom to compress the foreground and background I was able to blur the background more while keeping the foreground in sharp focus and vice versa; using nothing more than the fidgety little focus ring, I got some excellent rack focus going between the distant foreground and background. The results are terrific. I got a very narrow depth of field, 1/48th shutter, a nice wide open iris at 2.4 and no electronic gain (ie.as little noise as possible).


The scene is lit with various “practicals”; (an upright halogen light from K-Mart, 40-watt energy saver bulb in a glass brick from IKEA, and, most importantly, a 500W Lowel V Light bouncing off the ceiling. I also used a gold reflector to balance out the dark side of my face. Without enough light this shot would have been impossible.


The experiment proved that I can control my shutter, exposure and focus, achieving a very narrow depth of field with just a few simple steps and nothing more than the Canon HV20 and in this case the Canon wide angle lens attached (and lots of light!)


Shutter 1/48th (TVMode 48)

Exp: 2.4 (-9 gain, exp lock)
Manual Focus
HD 24p

Pics and vi(m)deo coming soon!



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